Building a Mr Sawdust Table for a DeWalt Radial Arm Saw,No video - but an entire book
If you are using a radial arm saw, then you should push the saw blade forward. This will allow you to make smooth cuts without any jagged edges. If you are cutting wood with a handsaw, then you should pull the saw blade backward. This will create more of a ripping motion and will result in rougher cuts. Which Way Do You Feed a Radial Arm Saw? Master the Radial Arm Saw The first book of its kind in 50 years, by the fellow who started it all! From basic to professional with over detailed drawings & illustrations – including how to 09/04/ · I am the publisher of “How to Master the Radial Saw,” and the daughter of the author, WM Kunkel (blogger.comt) A few days ago I received an e-mail from one of our How to Master the Radial Arm Saw by Wally Kunkel. Where Did You Hear About this Book? List Price: $ Price $ Add to cart: Product ID sawdust Radial Arm Saw. How to Even if you already have your copy, or read the sample chapters on the old website — take another look — we’re giving things a bit of treatment as we go — a few nice pictures in just the ... read more
It doesn't matter if a jointer, for example, looks good. What counts is that it produces straight square boards and this is always the final test of alignment. There are two reasons for using wood cuts, not metal squares, as the fine tuning instruments for a radial arm saw. Firstly, by using manipulation tricks when cutting wood, you can adjust the saw square to the table for a 6 inch depth and square from the fence for a 26 inch cut -- twice the actual cutting capacity of the machine. This means that within its actual cutting capacities it will be twice as precise as can possibly be measured with metal squares. Secondly, the end product is really what counts so I don't care if something may look out of line on the machine as long as the results of the blade passing through wood gives me the perfection I demand. This difference in apparent alignment and actual cutting results can be due to the fact that the metal square by necessity gives a static picture of the machine's alignment.
The blade engaged in wood gives a dynamic measurement identical to actual working conditions. We often scratch up the edge of a piece of wood or create considerable scrap trying to determine exactly where the point of entry will be for a cutting edge. Whether a drill press or a table saw, we are used to a lot of trial and error. The fence on a radial arm saw is usually a sorry looking chopped up mess, often hiding down below the wood to be cut. The gaping hole in the vicinity of where the blade passes through provides no backup against splinters on the back side of the cut and certainly is useless in guessing where the blade will strike the work piece. You must get used to the idea that the fence can be shifted an inch or two to the right or the left without really affecting its function at all as a back stop. This shifting allows you to put it in its normal position during line-up and general work, and then, when you want to get down to the business of precision, slide the fence over to a clean spot and make a nice fresh kerf cut through.
This new cut defines quite precisely both sides of the cuts you are about to make and backs up against splintering on the backside of the work piece at the same time. See the graphic. Unfortunately there is no precision guide for ripping so the final check on a rip setting is to actually cut a piece of wood and verify the results before putting the real work piece to the blade. Hi John. I've consulted several RAS resources, including Delphi forum, and can't find discussion that addresses what I'm experiencing with my Craftsman RAS Page 38 of the manual shows how to align the blade to table at 0 degrees bevel. Mine was out of alignment with a gap at the bottom of the blade. I made the adjustments and locked down the 4 socket head screws. After cross cutting maybe 10 2x2 and 1x5 pine boards, the cuts were visibly out of square. The gap at the bottom had reverted back to where it was prior to adjustment.
If you've got any ideas about what might be causing this, I'd appreciate your feedback very much. Thank you. Hello Chris, Page 38 talks about getting the roller bearings snug so they always have the same angle. This has nothing to do with being square -- only smooth firm movement. What you need to seek to do is to get the STOP on the lift side of the cut blade wanting to ride UP to be exactly square and lock that in. Either you don't have that exact, or you locked in the other side of the stop slop. In either case, you would have to find square and then squeeze down the clamp to hold it there. That will move with work. That is precisely why we lock in the upward moving part of the stop when the locking pin drops in at 0deg. Now locking in just makes things stable, but it is the stop itself, not the friction of the lock that will hold your 90 deg to the table, the zero setting.
I am not sure what the "gap at the bottom" was. The blade needs to cut slightly into the table and that is the column height adjustment done after the bevel angle is set. I bought a 20 year old Craftsman radial arm saw model I cleaned the track with a rag and mineral spirits. Then I removed the four carriage bearings and cleaned each with a mineral spirits soak followed by an alcohol soak, and then used an air compressor to blow out the crud. Each bearing required multiple cycles of this process. After adjusting the bearings as per the owner's manual, the saw arm moved smoothly and much more easily this was last night. This morning, the saw arm movement was much stiffer. Could ish degree overnight temperatures have caused this?
Hello Chris, A 20 degree temperature change could cause enough expansion and contraction to throw off a snug adjustment. Test sliding the head when the room is cold and when it is warm to see if there is a difference. If it does change, you will need to tune and use it at the same temperature. If it simply gets stiff after a cold spell, you probably have a lubricant that is thickening. Go back to clearing all the lubricant out and then use only silicone spray which will not thicken because of cold weather. Can you please recommend a saw blade for a 10" DeWalt radial arm saw. The saw is mainly used to cross and rip cut softer and ply woods. For general purpose work, I use a carbide tipped combination blade -- the one with 4 little cross cut teeth then one large rip tooth with its large dust gully, and that set of teeth repeated all around the blade.
It is not a perfect rip nor a perfect cross cut blade, but it does both well. For rough ripping Oak I have an old 4 tooth 10" blade, yup, only 4 teeth, but it rips oak like butter. For clean cross cutting you might use a blade with from 40 to 90 teeth! For speciality cuts, see the learning curve on Speciality Blades. I wanna have this book printed out but what's with all the blank pages with nothing but a page number and all the pages where there's only writing on one tiny bit of tue page? Out of pages 8 have nothing but page numbers. Why have a page 0? And a whole lot more only have writing on a tiny like 3x3 spacing or at most half the page. Lots of waste there. On page 8 of the book, page 10 of the PDF , you will find the answers to your questions about printing. The best copy of this book can be had by printing both sides on thick paper stock and then putting it into a three ring binder.
In fact, if you select the ringed binder layout in Word you will have space for the binder punches on the right side of even numbered pages, and on the left side of odd numbered pages. Then the photos and text that were designed to read across an open book will still read easily. Jon - I purchased a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw in the late 's, but did not discover your book until about five years ago. I bought a previously owned but nearly pristine copy through Amazon. My copy is now well marked with highlighter and marginal notes. I have found it very valuable in keeping my saw set up for precision as well as safety. I still have all of my "original equipment" body parts - something too many table saw users cannot say. I still have my original saw, and I am able to do better work with it now that I know much more than was in the original pitiful excuse for a manual.
Thank you for your work on that. And I really like the cover art as well, having been a fan of classical music most of my life. Mr Eakes, I am so pleased to be able to communicate with you. The notes I made in your book, Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw, indicate that I first availed myself of it in when I would been 27 wow! This past October my wife and I moved from our spacious home in Pepperell, MA to a smaller home in Peterborough, NH. Fortunately, the move didn't require downsizing my shop. I am still getting my shop back into working shape and this week has me finally getting to the radial saw.
Your book is once again proving to be invaluable. Thank you and warmest regards, Tom. I've had this book for a few years now and I consider it to be on the same level of usefulness and relevance as Wally Kunkel's masterpiece. I bought your book right after getting my first DeWalt radial arm saw. I've since "collected" a couple more saws and find this work to be unmatched. It's easy to understand, well presented and very thorough. I tuned a DeWalt R 5 years ago and it is as accurate today as it was then thanks to this book. Thanks for the compliments. It is really good to feel that I wrote an "evergreen" book. I have the same model DeWalt RAS that is in your book. I'm trying to decide how best to extend the work area. The three options are: 1 build cabinets or tables and place them on either side of the RAS table, 2 build a single cabinet or table in such a way that the saw sits in the middle, with a one-piece table spanning the cabinet or table tops, or 3 removeable extensions on both sides of the saw.
In option 1, the adjustment might make the saw table out of plane with the cabinet or table tops. That leaves option 3. Page 91 of the book actually talks about table extensions, including one plan for a portable installation. The majority of radial arm saws are constructed with a steel frame and a wood tabletop. The primary factor for this it that the saw blade will permeate the tabletop for many cutting operations. If you are looking for a good read on things to look for in a good table saw then please visit the home page of this web site. Many cuts on the saw will cut through the fence and the work product and into the front table. For a lot of radial arm saws , the rear table and the rip fence are secured in place in between wing bolts at the back and the front table. When the wing bolts are loosened up, the rear table and the rip fence are detachable. The front table is connected with 4 or more recessed bolts that are accessible under the saw where it connects to the steel base.
Cut the brand-new top to size, utilizing the existing front table as a design template. Drill the bolt holes to match the old top. It is economical, resilient, simple to deal with and will not hurt the blade when it is cut into. Inspect the saw for square. His instructions on how to tune the saw are good but not great. For example, he describes how to use a sized board to correct the horizontal heel of the blade but doesn't say how to correct the verticle heel. You perform a slightly different adjustment to two of the same three set screws on the motor. His method gets you close but not perfect. I found that Jon Eakes book, "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" does a much better job in this regard and includes a design for a very useful jig that allows you to hear whats going on with your saw and literally tune it by ear.
That said, Kunkle's book also contains volumes of information on how to use the saw which is something that is not found in Eakes book. The book is well worth the money. Buy it from the authors website mrsawdust. com to save money. Eakes' book is out of print but is available at joneakes. Just search for Mr. What a ripoff. These guys are thieves. And I thought that was overpriced. I'm probably cutting my own throat by writing this review. You see I want one of these Dewalt saws in the worse way. I used one in junior high and fell in love with it. That in itself says something about the quality of the saw-a bunch of amateur 15 year olds abusing it. This book takes you through everything you need to know about this great machine which is far from being an antique. I know many woodworkers hate the RAS but once you use a quality RAS and are instructed in its use you'll fall in love with one. I agree whole heartily with Clamdigger and I can't add much more to his review of this book.
Like I said though I'm probably hurting myself by giving this review because there are a ton of people who are looking for one to restore. So on second thought don't buy this book and please don't go looking for one of these saws! What is with this huge mark up? Price gouging? This book is without peer when it comes to buying, refurbishing and using the legendary DeWalt radial arm saws. Its contents include: 50 Pages on the history of the DeWalt saws, specs for all models, and alignment info. I own two radial saws - only one a DeWalt - and I never appreciated how much one can do with them before discovering this book. See all reviews. Your recently viewed items and featured recommendations. Back to top. Get to Know Us. Make Money with Us. Amazon Payment Products.
Several furniture making devices are as functional as a radial arm saw if you weigh the number of activities, this could conduct. In workplaces with minimal rooms, this could step in for other rooms-gobbling instruments. This can take the load off of your regular workbench and supply it. The radial arm saw is a unique hand tool because the whole mechanism and blade assembly are installed on an elevated arm. This allows the tool to pass through the material being cut, instead of the material being moved through a stationary blade like a table saw. He likes the fact that it could be easily changed like a table saw , miter box, or rotating saw. There are different types of saws that are good for different things. Some people think that a radial arm saw is a good all-purpose saw, while others think that it is not as good as a saw that is specifically designed for one thing. Both adjacents have marks. A radial arm saw will tear the panels to size, trim the miter and lengthwise split the pieces.
Yet its essential nature, a strong motor, and blade hanging from a large version render it an instrument that may lose accuracy. With the joys of a table saw and the mobility of a miter saw, it is in a category of its own. It handles wide boards by cutting through them with a radius blade. It cuts notches, dadoes, tenons, tapers, and moldings. Ok, a good one. Whenever it arrives at designing a board or doing daily fixes, the simple radial arm saw is perfect. The radial arm saw has superior precision and is ideal for projects that require high quality cuts or advanced measuring tools. However, one-purpose equipment such as a miter saw or table saw would best fit you for line furnishings-making or chopping interior window trim.
A fast radial arm saw starter is next, with a ranking to every form of cutting, to provide you an analysis of the capabilities and disadvantages of this instrument. If the saw is fresh, old, or getting pulled out of mothballs, you must take the time likely a good afternoon to start things up and change it appropriately. With training, you could move from one activity to the next in much less than a minute. With the radial arm saw, cross-cutting will cause beginner carpenters and artisans a bit tense. Would there be any way this could be prevented? The issue with radial arm cutters and moving alloy miter saws would be that blade movement appears to push it the same path as cutting.
Therefore, all without your support, a blade with such a stuck or favorable rake angle attempts to pull itself by the break. Such experts drag the engine and blade forward after adjust, then place the work surface, and drive the edge via the wood rather than pull. But adding a blade that has a tooth with a close to zero angular velocity is another alternative that will allow cutting with your tool much more straightforward and smoother. Less violent inclination significantly decreases the tilt of the blade to move its direction. The saw would not just be good to build, but the saw would also require fewer correction without any impact induced by a damaged saw.
Massive, rigid equipment which usually is not relatively compact are radial-arm saws. They are often pretty costly and are, therefore, a little hard to keep in place. In specialized wooden stores, so many features make them quite famous, whereby portability is not a problem as well as the holders may learn their usage. This instrument may be used to tear, break bevels and rabbets, shape paneling, and, in certain situations, also function as a reference for a router, but it is primarily a cross-cut saw. Much of this mobility has trade-offs. At one, it is much more complicated for certain radial-arm saws to build splits than specific other machines. It is simpler for starters to create a compact miter saw than just a radial arm saw to break compound mitered corners. A table saw to knock-cut products would be a much quicker system. A radial-arm can manage both activities efficiently and, considering its high purchasing cost, provides significant value. For all equipment, remember to learn and completely comprehend the directions which follow your machine until you start on using your radial-arm saw.
Fix the edge range just under the machine table while cross-cutting with such an arm-saw. No function on a radial-arm saw ever be performed cheap-hand. Still keep the stock it against fencing safely. It might allow the sawdust to float away from the person, but while it slices via the material, it can also trigger the saw edge to swing back or climb further towards you. Usually, a method detects the saw will break miters to the top or bottom of up to sixty angles and beveled edges of up to 90 °, but generally only in one path. Since this helps a radial-arm saw to slice quite precise composite positions than a compound miter saw, it could also be challenging to correct it. Often see that the fastening mechanisms on the saw are fixed in place until starting a cut. The saw is the best device for cross-cutting dice and rabbets, especially while creating shelves default threaded inserts or spaces.
Lift the blade apart from the table and mount your lined stakes array to the required size, being sure to set it up in the appropriate position for the rotor blade. Using a visual impairment of stock helps you identify the correct cutting depth for your piece until this set is assembled, and the blade shield is repositioned. Cutting this and rabbets is as simple as turning regular cross-cuts once the installation is finished. The very same package also makes it relatively easy to split tenors. A much less common, and perhaps less efficient, saw feature is to use it for ripping material. Although certain restrictions on cutting sizes can be done on a radial arm, it is no less challenging than using a table saw until the configuration is finished. Make sure to have still use of the anti-kickback installation consisting of a sawing knife and pawls while constructing the radial-arm saw to tear. The sawing knife is intended to help maintain the stock on the blade from activation.
The pawls are built to catch the stock to keep it from forcing back if the blade jammed throughout a rip break. Radial arm saws are still useful for a variety of tasks, including cutting lumber, trimming wood, and cutting sheet goods. There are several factors to consider when choosing a radial arm saw: the size of the blade, the number of cuts it can make in one pass, how easily it can be adjusted, and the type of material you will be cutting. Some things to keep in mind when using a radial arm saw are to use caution when making long cuts and to wear safety goggles and gloves. There is no correct answer to this question as it depends on the type of saw that you are using and the task at hand. If you are using a radial arm saw, then you should push the saw blade forward. This will allow you to make smooth cuts without any jagged edges. If you are cutting wood with a handsaw, then you should pull the saw blade backward. This will create more of a ripping motion and will result in rougher cuts.
There are a few ways to feed a radial arm saw. The most common way is to hold the saw with your left hand and use your right hand to guide the blade. There is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question, as the type of saw that is best for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences. However, a radial arm saw is often considered to be a better option than a table saw because it has many advantages over traditional saws. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for website owners to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.
com, endless. com, smallparts. com, myhabit. com, and any other website that may be affiliated with Amazon Service LLC Associates Program. How to Master the Radial Arm Saw August 21, 0. Related Articles. How to Store Pressure Treated Wood. How to Store Firewood to Avoid Termites. How to Measure Dust in the Workplace. How to Waterproof Plywood for Boat. We will be happy to hear your thoughts. Leave a reply Cancel reply. Latest Update.
How To Make A New Table For A Radial Arm Saw,Principle 1 -- Snug Movement
Even if you already have your copy, or read the sample chapters on the old website — take another look — we’re giving things a bit of treatment as we go — a few nice pictures in just the If you are using a radial arm saw, then you should push the saw blade forward. This will allow you to make smooth cuts without any jagged edges. If you are cutting wood with a handsaw, then you should pull the saw blade backward. This will create more of a ripping motion and will result in rougher cuts. Which Way Do You Feed a Radial Arm Saw? Connect the brand-new top to the steel frame. Set up the rip fence and rear table. Inspect the saw for square. Lower the saw till the blade consults with the front table. Raise the blade 1/4 turn. Gluing two pieces of MDF for the table Cutting the strut channel (the jigsaw was a lot cleaner than the angle grinder but lost a few blades) Marking the holes under the frame First How to Master the Radial Arm Saw by Wally Kunkel. Where Did You Hear About this Book? List Price: $ Price $ Add to cart: Product ID sawdust Radial Arm Saw. How to Firstly, by using manipulation tricks when cutting wood, you can adjust the saw square to the table for a 6 inch depth and square from the fence for a 26 inch cut -- twice the actual cutting ... read more
I liked it so much, I bought the hardcover version off Ebay a few years back This shifting allows you to put it in its normal position during line-up and general work, and then, when you want to get down to the business of precision, slide the fence over to a clean spot and make a nice fresh kerf cut through. However, the arm has restricted movement when swung to the left, hard-stopping at around degrees, whereas when swinging to the right, it goes past 0 degrees to about before stopping. Page 91 of the book actually talks about table extensions, including one plan for a portable installation. Vibrations in the machine will mean a clattering contact between the cutting edge and the wood. This morning, the saw arm movement was much stiffer. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average.
This has nothing to do with being square -- only smooth firm movement. I agree whole heartily with Clamdigger and I can't add much more to his review of this book, how to master the radial saw pdf download. Knowing that will help if you get lost in the text. If you own this book and have a question, or if you just what to say what you think about the book, add to " Your Blog comments " at the bottom of this page. Cutting this and rabbets is as simple as turning regular cross-cuts once the installation is finished. My Craftsman 10" machine has never performed better.
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